It was windy early in the morning, and we were driving from Colombo to the Galle Fort in Sri Lanka. The sun had heard our prayers for mercy and the clouds were gathering all around. My driver, Kamil, was a treasure trove of stories and he told us that the legends of Galle are linked to the Ramayana. It was a two-hour journey and as we moved on the highway, I heard many stories that reminded me of the colonial era. I was surprised when Kamil told me that it was a rooster that gave the coastal town its name. When the Portuguese landed on the coast here around the 16th century after being driven by a storm, they heard the sound of a rooster announcing the dawn and they decided to name it Galle after the name of gallo, which means rooster. Even the Dutch retained it as the symbol of the city, as in their language this bird was called gallus.
But Galle had a name even before the Portuguese arrived. It was called Gimhathitha, which in Sinhalese means “port near the Gin River”. It was established as a trading port and cinnamon from the region was in great demand. Galle also saw many famous visitors and it was none other than Ibn Battuta, who referred to it as Kali in his journal during his visit here in the 14th century. Galle is mentioned in many historical records and one of the earliest mentions is in an inscription written in three languages – Chinese, Tamil and Persian. Dated around the 15th century, it described the visit of the Chinese admiral Zheng He. However, it was the colonial powers who gave the Galle Fort its current identity as Sri Lanka.
The serene atmosphere of Galle captivated me as I passed through the gateways of the old fort. The tall clock tower welcomed me as I entered the main gate. Young boys were playing cricket in the open, while couples were relaxing in quiet corners. The city had an old-world charm. This small labyrinth of lanes gave the city a unique identity. Galle was almost like a living fortress. Wandering around, I bumped into the remnants of colonial life and admired the Dutch architecture of old houses and monuments. Some of them were converted into villas and hotels, set amidst tropical gardens and plantations surrounded by palm trees, taking you into a languid mood. Almost every lane had hidden gems. Almost every nook and cranny was lined with colourful boutiques, souvenir shops, cafes and bars, restaurants and hotels beckoning me.
The Portuguese built a small mud fort with three bastions here, but the Dutch strengthened it and added more bastions, some of which are named Sun, Moon and Star. Galle was spread over 130 acres with 14 bastions and two large gates open to the world when Galle was at the peak of maritime trade. The British may have taken over from the Dutch, but it is still the latter who hold sway over this colonial seaside town. Even today, the Dutch own property inside the fort. The former residence of the Dutch governor is now a luxurious hotel called Amangalla, but legends say that the then owner has no intention of leaving his home and stays in a special room of this luxurious property.
I started walking from one end of the rampart to the other, admiring the sea and getting lost in the breeze. The Sun Bastion, overlooking the harbour, was the first one I came across. Standing on the rampart and feeling the breeze on my face, I looked at the vast sea spread out in front of me. Old monuments from the Dutch era added to my stroll. I could see the tall lighthouse at the far end of the rampart.
Some tourists had taken a tour of the fort, which is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. They entered Church Street and went into the Dutch Reformed Church or Groote Kerk, originally built in the 17th century. Next to the Groote Kerk was the Dutch Clock Tower and across from that was the All Saints Church. The Maritime Archaeology Museum was also around the corner. A Dutch warehouse had been converted into a maritime museum, where we saw the destructive power of the tsunami and how it crippled the galley.
I continued along the ramparts again and reached the oldest bastion called Zwart, named Black because it was always surrounded by a thick blanket of smoke. The sun was gradually getting harsher, passing over more bastions as I headed towards the old Dutch hospital and lighthouse. I took a break at the beautiful columned Dutch hospital building, which was now buzzing with bars and pubs. Quenching my thirst with a glass of beer, I got lost in more stories. The Lighthouse beach was packed with people and I walked to the end of the fort, where the Flag Rock Bastion was. Kamil had told me that diving off the cliff from a height of 40 feet between this spot and the Tristan Bastion was a sport. However, it was pretty quiet here today, as the sun was shining and that was my cue to head towards a cozy restaurant.
Galle cannot be seen in a day. Apart from churches, there were temples, shrines and mosques. Old mansions became museums. Flea markets and fish markets were packed with locals and tourists. Every street looked like a carnival. There were cooking classes and mask-making workshops. The sea kept calling me and I was lost in its many colours. Colorful autos added to the many colours of the rainbow. The neighbouring beach town of Unawatuna attracted scuba divers. You can also visit Polhena Beach, where you can see fishermen sitting on poles waiting for their catch. As for me, I just stared at the sea for eternity, listening to the rhythm of the waves and getting lost in its melody.
fact File
Galle is about 130 km from Colombo and it is ideal to stay here for at least two days. Some of the Dutch bungalows and villas have been converted into bed and breakfasts, apart from many luxury and boutique hotels. It is a paradise for those who love seafood but for vegetarians, the traditional thali of rice and curry is a great meal. You can take a cab to drop you off in Galle.
You can go to Galle and come back by expressway; you can drive comfortably and stop at many attractions, such as water sports in Bentota or river safari in Balapitiya, etc. Maybe I will come back some other time to experience them.
